Preservation of fabric fibers and leather allows insight into the clothing of ancient society. The clothing worn in the ancient world reflects the technology that these people control. In many cultures, clothing shows the social status of various members of society.
The development of clothing and fashion is characteristic of human beings and is characteristic of most human societies. Clothes made of materials such as animal skins and herbs were originally used by early humans to protect their bodies from the elements. The use of clothing and textiles throughout the ages reflects the various developments of civilization and technology. Sources available for clothing and textile studies include remnants of material found through archeology; textile representation and its manufacture in art; and documents on the manufacture, procurement, use, and trade of fabrics, equipment, and garments.
Video Clothing in the ancient world
Ancient Egyptian Dress
Textile materials
Though conscious of other materials, ancient Egypt most often used linen, a product made from abundant flax plants. Due to the belief that fabric-based fabrics are impure, wool is rarely used and prohibited in places such as temples and holy places. Other animal-based products such as feathers are reserved for priests and eventually adopted by only the highest class of ancient Egyptians. The light, strong and flexible linen makes it ideal for living in warm climates, where abrasion and heat will be hit and torn in clothing. So, most ancient Egyptians used linen as their main textile.
The quality of the garment material differs between the classes, where the upper classes use fine sheets, depicted in sculptures and paintings by their translucency. They also use more complicated curtains, designs and patterns that include stained yarn and feathers. These materials are expensive and the wearer shows a greater status by wearing them. On the other hand, cheaper and thicker linens are used in the lower classes, where short clothing is worn by the working class for better mobility in the fields.
Clothing
Men in ancient Egypt often wore loincloths (or schenti ) common in all classes; although people from higher classes wear longer schenti , often pair it with a robe or tunic. It is considered acceptable for men and women to open their chests, both in the upper and lower classes. Lack of clothing, however, is often associated with youth or poverty; it is common for children from all social classes to not dress up to the age of six, and for slaves to remain unclosed for most of their lives. Certain clothing that is common to both sexes includes robes and robes. Around 1425 to 1405 BC, a thin tunic or a popular short sleeve shirt, as well as a pleated skirt.
Clothes for adult women remain unchanged for several millennia, except for small details. Clothes wrapped in huge rolls give the impression of wearing some items. It is actually hawk , often from very fine muslin. The dress is rather narrow and even narrow, made of white cloth or cloth that is not bleached to the lower class. Clothes worn by a higher grade show the arms beginning under the chest and held by the suspenders strapped to the shoulders. These suspenders occasionally cover the breasts, other times pass between them, and are painted and colored for various reasons such as imitating feathers on Isis wings.
Characteristics of the women's apparel in Ancient Egyptian ancient Ancient are short skirts for lower classes, or slices , long skirts that reach from the ankle to the bottom, or just above the breast. By the Middle Kingdom, long skirts are fashion. They are like skirts, reaching from the waist to the ankle, sometimes even hanging from the armpits. The New Kingdom is a more luxurious period; people are wearing more clothes, sometimes layered. with underwear and outdoors. This outer layer is made of very fine linen and beautiful linen, and will look almost transparent.
Clothes of different royal families, and well-documented; e.g. Crown of Pharaoh as mentioned below, feather headdress, and khat or head cloth all worn by nobles.
Shoes are the same for both sexes; sandals braided with leather, or, especially for bureaucratic and priesthood classes, papyrus.
Perfume and cosmetics
Embalming makes it possible to develop cosmetic and fragrance products very early. Perfume in Egypt is a very expensive perfume. In ancient times, people used it well. The Egyptians used make-up more than anyone else at the time. Kohl, used as an eyeliner, was eventually obtained in lieu of galena or lead oxide that had been used for centuries. Cat eye is the most common form and is used to protect the eyes from the sun. The reason for them to wear eye makeup is to protect the eyes from the sun and ward off infection. The dramatic makeup also mimics the sign of the face of the sun god Horus, who is often described as an eagle. Eye shadow is made of malachite and oily lipstick is destroyed. Substances used in some toxic cosmetics, and have adverse health effects with long-term use. Beauty products are generally mixed with animal fat to make it more compact, easier to handle and to preserve it. Nails and hands are also painted with a boyfriend. Only the lower classes have tattoos. It's also fashionable at parties for men and women to wear fragrant cones over their heads. The cones are usually made of cow fat and myrrh and as time passes, it melts and releases a pleasant perfume. When the melted cone is replaced with a new one (see picture adjacent to musicians and dancers) . The use of cosmetics is slightly different between social classes, where more make-up is worn by higher class individuals because richer people can get more make-up. Although there is no prominent difference between the upscale and lower cosmetic styles, the noble ladies are known to pale their skin using creams and powders. This is because pale skin becomes a sign of nobility because lighter skin means less exposure to the sun while dark skin is associated with a brownish lower class when taking part in grunt work such as working in a field. This causes the pale skin to represent a noble class that does not work, because the noble lady will not work in the sun.
Wig and head cover
Although heads are shaved as both a sign of nobility and because of the hot climate, hairstyles are a big part of the ancient Egyptian style through the use of wigs. Wigs are used by both upper and lower class sex; the quality of the wig depends on the amount of available disposable income, which creates a visual rift between classes. Good quality wigs are made of human hair and decorated with gems and woven with gold. In court, more elegant examples have small glasses at the top filled with perfumes; The Pharaohs even wear a wig beard for certain special occasions. There is evidence of cheap wigs made of wool and palm fibers, substituted gold substitutes used in more expensive partners with beads and linen. Ancient Egyptian talent with substitution allows wigs and headdresses to be worn by all social classes; as an example. head coverings, made of rigid linen and wrapped above the shoulders provided for the elite class to protect the wearer from the sun. On the other hand, headdresses like pschent are exclusive to pharaoh . Pharaoh also wore various crowns to identify different gods, such as the horned crown of the goddess Hathor. In both social classes children are represented with one remaining hair key on the right side of their head ( see adjacent picture ). The most common head cover is kaften , a square striped cloth worn by men.
Ornament
Ornaments can be worn by all and even woven into hair, producing a wig that contains decorations. The strange ornament the Egyptians created was gorgerin, a metal disc assemblage that rested on a breastplate or a short-sleeved shirt, and tied at the back. Some of today's lower classes also create different kinds of body trappings and decorations; some of which even include genital piercings, commonly found in female prostitutes at the time.
Jewelers
It was common for the ancient Egyptians to be covered in jewelry because they believed it made them more attractive to the Gods. Upscale Egyptians are fascinated with gold jewelry. They believe that gold is the color of the sun, and symbolizes the permanent sun and immortality, because it does not corrode or oxidize with time. Accessories are often decorated with precious and precious precious stones like emeralds, pearls, and lapis lazuli, to create intricate patterns inspired by nature. Common motifs include white lotus, palm leaves, and even animals representing deities. Although jewelers used by lower classes have similar motives and designs, they are made with cheaper substitutes. Copper is used in place of gold, and glazed or faience glass - a mixture of ground quartz and dyes - to imitate precious stones. The most popular stones used are lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise. Jewelry heavy and rather large, showing Asian influence. The lower classes wear small and simple glasses; bracelet is also heavy. They wear large disks as power necklaces, sometimes described as a refuge. Gold is abundant in Nubia and imported for jewelry and other decorative arts.
Maps Clothing in the ancient world
Minoan Minoan Clothing
As elsewhere, Chinatown dresses in ancient times are well-documented in their artwork where many items worn by priests and priests seem to reflect the most garments. Wool and hemp are used. Rotating and weaving are domestic activities, using similar techniques to the Egyptians at that time, and dyeing is the only commercial process that fits elsewhere in ancient times. Fabric embroidered. Crimson is used most in coloring, in four different colors.
Minoan Women's Dress
At the beginning of culture, loincloths are used by both sexes. The women in Crete wore more clothing as an underskirt than men, by extending it. They are often illustrated in sculptures with large daggers mounted on belts. The provision of goods intended to secure personal salvation is undoubtedly one of the characteristics of women's clothing in the Neolithic era, traces of practice found in Danish peat swamps up to the Bronze Age.
The women's clothing of Crete includes the first sewn clothing that is known to history. A long, low-necked dress, with an open corset almost to the waist, leaving the breast open. The dress is often accompanied by a Minoan corset , the initial shape of the corset made as a close fitting blouse, designed to narrow the waist, since the narrow waist is appreciated in the Minoan culture. The belt, too, remains tight, and is used to narrow the waist before a corset, long or short coat, or a hat used to complement a woman's outfit. The ancient brooch, widespread in the Mediterranean, is used throughout the period.
Minoan Men's Dress
Almost all men wear loincloths. Unlike the Egyptians, the shanti varies according to the piece and is usually arranged as a short skirt or apron, ending at a sticking point similar to the tail. Fabrics pass legs, tailored to belts, and almost certainly, adorned with metal. It is worn by everyone in the community, as well as stand-alone clothing for women during more athletic activities, such as bull-jumping.
In addition to Cretan style, Cycladic clothing is worn as pants across the continent. The front triangle releases the upper part of the thigh. One can say it's clothing from the athletic population, because of this and the fact that the chest is always naked. Sometimes covered with vats, perhaps ritually. However, long clothes are worn for protection against bad weather and eventually wool coats are used by Greeks.
Men have long hair that flows into the shoulders; But some kind of ordinary headgear, type of hat and turban, may be leather. Shoes are leather shoes, maybe from chamois, and are only used to leave the house, where people go barefoot, like in holy places and palaces. People who have learned this have realized that the outdoor staircase is very damaged, the inside is almost nonexistent. It is well known that then, entering the house - this custom has already been used in Crete. The boots had a slightly raised tip, indicating the origin of Anatolia, similar to that found on the Etruria fresco.
Ancient Israel clothing
Israelite Man
Undergarments
The earliest and most basic outfit is' ezor ( ay- ZOR ) or ? agor ( ket- AW -net ). a small tunic. The kuttoneth appeared in Assyrian art as a tight underwear, sometimes reaching the knee, occasionally to the ankle. The kuttoneth corresponds to the modern Middle Eastern agricultural worker: a rough cotton tunic with loose and open arms in the chest. Anyone wearing only kuttoneth is considered naked.
Outerwear
- simla
The simla ( sim- LAH ) is a heavy outer garment or scarf of various shapes. It consists of a large piece of coarse, heavy wool material, roughly stitched together so that the front is not fitted and with two left openings for the sleeve. Flax is another possible ingredient.
On that day was protection from rain and cold, and on the eve of the peasants of Israel were able to wrap themselves in this garment for warmth (see Deuteronomy 24:13). The front of simla can also be arranged in a wide fold (see Exodus 4: 6) and all kinds of products can be brought in (See 2Ka 4:39, Exodus 12:34).
Every honorable person generally wears simla over kuttoneth (See Isaiah 20: 2-3), but because simla is blocking the work, it is either abandoned or removed while working. (See Matthew 24:18). From these simple items ordinary people develop a rich coat of ornaments from the rich, who reach from neck to knee and have short sleeves.
- me'il
The me'il ( m? - EEL ) or the cloak is generally worn over garments, (See 1Samuel 2:19, 1Samuel 15:27). The me'il is an expensive wrapper (See 1 Samuel 2:19, 1Samuel 18: 4, 1Samuel 24: 5, 1Samuel 24:11) and, according to the description of the imam i 'il , similar to a sleeveless abaya (Exodus 28:31). This, like the me'il of the high priest, may have reached only to the knee, but usually should have been a long-sleeve garment made of thin fabrics, probably imported from Syria.
Religious outfits
The Torah commanded that the Israelites wear tassels or fringes ( i> It , tsee- TSEET or gedilim , ghed- EEL ) attached to the angle - the garment corner (see Deuteronomy 22:12, Numbers 15:38).
Phylacteries or Headwear
The depiction shows some Hebrew and Syrians bare-headed or just wearing a band to unite the hair. The Hebrew peasants undoubtedly also wore headdresses similar to modern keffiyeh, a large piece of wool cloth folded diagonally into triangular shapes. The folds are worn on the forehead, with loose keffiyeh on the back and shoulders, often held in place by a circle of ropes. Men and women from the upper classes wore a kind of turban, cloth wrapped around their heads. The shape is very varied.
Footwear
Sandals ( na'alayim ) of leather are used to protect the feet from burning sand and moisture. It may also be wooden sandals, with leather straps (Genesis 14:23, Isaiah 5:27). Sandals are not worn at home or in the sanctuary (see Exodus 3: 5, Joshua 5:15).
Israeli woman
Women's clothing mostly deals with men: they wear simla and kuttoneth . Women's clothing is clearly different from men (see Deuteronomy 22: 5). Women's clothing may be longer (compare Nahum 3: 5, Jeremiah 13:22, Jeremiah 13:26, Isaiah 47: 2), has arms (2 Samuel 13:19), perhaps brighter and more ornate, and perhaps also has a finer material.
Israeli women used to wear veils in public, which distinguished them from women in ancient pagan societies. Even when hijab-habits are reduced among other ancient societies, Israeli women defend them for religious identification. The scarf, dictated by Jewish piety, and other forms of headscarves were also worn by ancient Israeli women in cities such as Jerusalem.
Ancient Greek Clothing
Ancient Greece is famous for its philosophy, art, literature, and politics. Consequently, the classical period of Greek style in clothing has often been revived when society then hopes to evoke some respected aspects of ancient Greek civilization, such as democratic governance. The Greek style in dress became fashionable in France shortly after the French Revolution (1789-1799), because it was considered to express the ideals of democracy in which the revolution was championed, no matter how wrong the understanding of historical reality.
The clothing reformers of the nineteenth century AD recognized the ancient Greek outfits because they thought it represented eternal beauty, the opposite of the elaborate and rapidly changing modes of their time, as well as the more practical reason that the Grecian-style dress requires a much less cloth than the period Rococo.
Clothing in ancient Greece consisted mainly of chiton, peplos, himation, and chlamys. While no clothes survived from this period, descriptions exist from contemporary accounts and artistic depictions. Clothing is mainly homemade, and often serves many purposes (like a bed). Despite the popular imagination and depiction of all-white media outfits, elaborate designs and bright colors are preferred.
Ancient Greek clothing consists of linen or wool, which is generally rectangular. Clothes secured with pinch or pin ( ?????? , perÃÆ'³n? ; cf. fibula), and a belt, sash, or belt (zone) can secure the waist.
- Peplos, Chitons
The inner tunic is a peplos or chiton. Peplos is worn by women. Usually it is a heavier, more typical Greek wool garment, with a shoulder hinge. The top of the peplos is folded to the waist to form apoptygma. Chiton is a simple tunic clothing of lighter linen, worn by both sexes and all ages. Chiton man is hanging on the knee, while female chiton falls into their ankles. Often chitons are shown as pleated. Either clothes can be pulled under a belt to make a cloth blouse: kolpos.
- Strophion, Epiblema, Veil
Strophion is an underwear that is sometimes worn by women around the center of the body, and a scar (epiblema) can be draped over the tunic. Women are dressed in most parts of ancient Greece though in some areas, they also wear loose veils as well at public and market events.
- Chlamys
The chlamys are made of a smooth rectangular wool material worn by men as robes; it's the size of a blanket, usually closed. Chlamys is a typical Greek military outfit from the 5th century to the 3rd century BC. As used by the army, it can be wrapped around the arm and used as a light shield in combat.
- Himation
The basic outer garment during the winter is a himation, a larger robe worn over peplos or chlamys. Heration has the most influence possible in later mode.
- Athletics and nudity
During Classical times in Greece, male nakedness received religious sanctions following major changes in culture. After that time, male athletes participated in ritualized athletic competitions such as the classic version of the Ancient Olympics, naked because women were barred from competing except as the owner of the racecourse. Their ancient events were stopped, one of them (one footprint for women) was the only genuine competition. The myth tells that after this ban, a woman was found to have won the competition while wearing a man's outfit - instituting a policy of nudity among competitors that prevents such shame again.
Ancient Roman and Italic Clothing
Ancient Roman and Italic ClothingAncient Italian clothing, like the ancient Greeks, is very famous of art, literature & amp; archeology. Although the aspect of Roman clothing has tremendous appeal to Western imagination, Etruscan clothing and customs of Italian civilization before Rome is less imitated (see the adjacent image), but the similarities in their garments can be recorded. The Etruscan culture dates from 1200 BC through the first two phases of the Roman period. During his semaksimalnya during the foundation of Rome and the Roman empire, he developed in three confederations of the city: Etruria, Po valley with the eastern Alps, and Latium and Campania. Rome is located in the Etruscan region. There is sufficient evidence that early Rome was dominated by Etruscans until Rome sacked Veii in 396 BC.
In ancient Rome, boys after the age of sixteen had their clothes burned as a sign of growing up. The Roman girls also wore white clothing until they got married to say they were pure and virgin.
Toga and tunics
Perhaps the most important item in the ancient Roman cabinet was a toga, one-piece woolen garment wrapped loosely around the shoulders and under the body. Togas can be wrapped in different ways, and they become larger and more volumes over the centuries. Some innovations are really fashionable. Because it's not easy to wear a toga without tripping or hanging the curtain, some variations in wraps serve a practical function. Another style is required, for example, to cover the head during the ceremony.
Historians believe that the toga was originally worn by all Romans during the combined centuries of the Roman monarchy and its successor, the Roman Republic. At this time it is considered that the toga was worn without underwear. Free citizens are required to wear a toga. because only slaves and children wear tunics. In the 2nd century BC, however, it was worn over the tunic, and the tunics became basic clothes for men and women. Women wear outer clothes known as stoles, which are long dresses similar to Greek robes.
Although the togas is now regarded as the only clothing worn in ancient Italy, in fact, many other styles of clothing are worn and also familiar in the images seen in the artwork of that period. Clothing can be highly specialized, for example, for warfare, certain occupations, or for sports. In ancient Rome, female athletes wore leather pants and bras for maximum coverage but the ability to compete.
Girls and boys under the age of puberty sometimes wear a special toga with a reddish purple band on the bottom edge, called toga praetexta . This toga is also used by judges and high priests as an indication of their status. The toga candida , a whitened toga, worn by political candidates. Prostitutes wear muliebris toga , rather than tunics worn by most women. The toga pulla is dark and used for mourning, while toga purpurea , of purple-dyed wool, is used in the heyday and by the Roman emperor.
After the transition of the Roman Republic into the Roman Empire at c. 44 BC, only men who are Roman citizens wearing a toga. Women, slaves, foreigners, and others who are not Roman citizens wear robes and are prohibited from wearing a toga. In the same way, the Romans were asked to wear a toga when doing business officially. Over time, the toga evolved from a national into a ceremonial costume. Different types of togas indicate age, profession, and social rank. The Roman writer Seneca criticized those who wore their toga loosely or haphazardly. He also criticized men who wear what is considered a feminine or embarrassing style, including a slightly transparent togas.
The late adult toga, the virilis toga, is made of plain white wool and worn after the age of fourteen. A woman convicted of adultery may be forced to wear a toga as a shame badge and strangely, as a symbol of the disappearance of her female identity.
The ancient Romans realized that their clothes were different from others. In particular, they recorded trousers worn by people whom they considered barbarians from the north, including Germanic Frank and Goth. The figures depicted in ancient Roman armor armor often include barbarian soldiers wearing shirts and trousers.
Symbolism and influence
Roman outfits take symbolic meaning for the next generation. Roman armor, especially muscle protector, has symbolized extraordinary power. In Europe during the Renaissance (15th and 16th centuries AD), painters and sculptors sometimes depict rulers wearing pseudo-Roman military clothing, including armor, military robes, and sandals.
Then, during the French Revolution, attempts were made to dress officers in uniforms based on Roman toga, to symbolize the importance of citizenship to the republic. Adopted by a revolutionary rank and file, an 18th-century freedom cap, a hat that does not limp and fits around its head, is based on a hat worn by freed slaves in ancient Rome, the Phrygian hat.
Modern Western brides also inherited elements from ancient Roman wedding clothing, such as wedding veils and wedding rings.
Ancient Indian Clothing
Evidence of ancient Indian clothing can be found in statues, stone carvings, cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These statues show the human figure wearing clothes wrapped around the body, such as sari, turban and dhoti. Upscale people wear fine silk fabrics and imported silk fabrics while general classes wear locally made fabrics such as cotton, hemp, wool, linen, and leather.
India is one of the first places where cotton is cultivated and used as early as 2500 BC during the Harappan Era (3300-1300 BC). The latest analysis of Harappan silk fibers in beads has shown that silk is made by a shaken process, an art known only to China until the early centuries AD. The only evidence found for clothing is from iconography and some Harappan statues are unearthed which are not usually dressed. This little depiction shows that men usually wear long cloths that wrap around their waists and tighten them in the back (like dhoti attached). The turban is worn out, and the long robe on the left shoulder is worn by a high social rank. The normal outfit of the women at that time was a skirt that was very minimal to the knees long, waist and cotton head dress. Jewelry is very popular, and men put their hair in various styles with a cut beard.
Vedic period (c.1750 - 500 BC) clothing for both sexes including single cloth wrapped around the whole body and covering the shoulders. The lower outfit called paridhana is folded in front and tied with a belt (mekhala), and worn with an upper garment like a scarf called uttariya. Orthodox men and women usually wear the uttariya by throwing it on the left shoulder only, in a style called upavita . The lower outfit is called 'nivi' or 'nivi bandha', while the top is mostly left bare. In cold weather clothing called pravara worn. Sometimes poor people wear lower clothing as loincloths, while rich people wear long pravara to show their prestige. Vedic women especially wear sari, derived from ????, Sanskrit for 'strip of cloth' ???? . Ahead of the later Vedic period, choli and dupatta, smaller versions of the essence, were introduced. Dupatta is worn with ghaghara (long skirt ankle). Veda men wear lungi (clothes like sarongs and dhoti, one cloth wrapped around the waist and legs traditionally worn by men in the village Wool, linen, silk and cotton are the main fibers used for making clothes, with woven lines and checks, gold jewelry remains very popular.
The evidence of clothing worn during the Maurya Empire (322-185 BC) came from the yakshini statue, the symbol of female fertility. The most common outfit of people at the time was a low outfit called antariya, generally made of cotton, linen or muslin and decorated with gems, and tied with a circular knot in the middle of the waist. A cloth is covered with a lehenga style around the hips to form a tubular skirt. Another long decorated piece of cloth, hanging in front and wrapped around the waist, is called patka. The women of the Mauryan Empire often wore embroidered belts with drum head knots at the ends. As the upper garment, the main clothing of the people is uttariya, long scarf worn in several ways.
See also
- The history of clothing and textiles
References
Source
- Metropolitan Art Museum
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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